James "Jim" Whittaker, the legendary mountaineer who became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest and later transformed REI into a global retail powerhouse, passed away on April 6, 2026, at the age of 97. He died peacefully at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.

Born in Seattle to Charles and Adeline Whittaker, he grew up alongside his twin brother and fellow renowned mountaineer Lou Whittaker. After graduating from West Seattle High School, he earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Biology from the University of Washington. His path to history began when Mary and Lloyd Anderson hired him as the first full-time employee of Recreational Equipment, Inc.

In 1963, Whittaker secured his place in history. Climbing via the South Col alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu, he became the first American to stand atop Mount Everest, an achievement chronicled by National Geographic. President John F. Kennedy awarded him the Hubbard Medal in the White House Rose Garden, noting that Whittaker proved the American spirit remained alive and capable of reaching any height.

Yet it was a 1965 expedition that perfectly captured the essence of Whittaker's life. He led Senator Robert F. Kennedy on the first ascent of Mount Kennedy in the Yukon Territory, a peak named in honor of the late President. This climb served as the perfect microcosm of his journey, blending high-stakes adventure with national service. It demonstrated his unique ability to guide others through both physical and emotional wilderness.

Whittaker carried this guiding ethos into the boardroom. As President and CEO of REI, he became the architect of American outdoor culture. He oversaw the company's expansion from a local cooperative into a national retailer. He firmly believed that the edge was a place for everyone, from world leaders to weekend hikers. In his autobiography, "A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond," he wrote that anyone not living on the edge was taking up too much space.

His mountaineering achievements continued to break records. He led the first successful American expedition to the summit of K2, the second highest mountain in the world. He shared many of these major expeditions with his wife, Dianne Roberts, a professional photographer and fellow climber.

Whittaker viewed climbing as a powerful diplomatic tool. As reported by The New York Times, he organized and led the 1990 Everest Peace Climb. This historic expedition brought together climbers from the United States, the Soviet Union, and China, proving that shared challenges could bridge deep political divides. The American Alpine Club later inducted him into their Hall of Mountaineering Excellence for his lifetime contributions to the sport.

His true legacy extends far beyond the records he set or the retail empire he built. Whittaker championed environmental stewardship and taught generations of adventurers to respect the wild places they explored. He famously observed that a climber never truly conquers a mountain, noting that you stand on the summit for a few moments and then the wind blows your footprints away. For Whittaker, the summit was always temporary, but the perspective gained from the climb remained permanent.